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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.